Kolar — Many small excerpts from majestic periods of antiquity.

Srinidhi
9 min readMay 2, 2021

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Just before the second wave of Covid started in India, we went on a timely but short trip to Kolar, breaking our self-imposed year-long home confinement. Initially, nothing seemed special about Kolar apart from the fact that it is one of the nearest travel spots and of course, very isolated (A much important factor in the era of social distancing).

Although the main attractions in the district are relics of several grand empires, the Ganga of Talakadu, the Cholas, the Hoysalas and the Vijayanagara, they are far from the crème de la crème which one will find in Shravanabelagola, Tanjavur, Belur and Hampi respectively. Nevertheless, making the best of the situation, Kolar definitely gives us so much to learn!

With the lack of records and literary works, the stone structures built centuries ago and the depressions etched on the stone are far more important than we could think of. Without it, our history would be myth and myth would be history. But to listen to the saga that the stone narrates, we need to be silent enough.

Our first stop was at the Someshwara temple and followed by the Kolaramma temple in Kolar. We then proceeded to the Ramalingeshwara group of temples at Avani which was nearly abandoned for worship, merely remaining as ASI monuments. Our next and last stop was the Markandeya hill which houses the Markandeshwara temple and lots of monkeys. In the remaining of the article, I shall try to give the historical background of these.

In around 350 AD, the founder king of the Gangas — Konganivarman Madhava established the capital at Kolar (before moving it to Talakadu). As feudatories initially to the Badami Chalukyas and later to the Rashtrakutas, this Kannada kingdom lasted for a solid 700 years. [1]

In an introductory chapter to the monumental 11 part THCTIP series, Sri RC Majumdar says — “In all these cases it has only been possible to reconstruct the skeleton with the help of archaeological evidence discovered in comparatively recent times. . . . . . It is mostly a string of names and incidents, often with wide gaps, and almost always without that fullness of detail which enables us to trace the causes and consequences of specific events, examine the various forces at work in their true perspective . . . .”[2]

An unfortunate consequence of this is that, as pieces of the jigsaw are put together, amongst the multitude of names that are etched on stone, a few note women and much lesser, women of power. Yet, as we find Prabhavatigupta, Rudrammadevi and Ahaliyabai Holkar amongst many, their works are inspiring to several even today.

On a pillar in the Ramalingshwara temple at Avani, an 1130-year-old inscription asks — The goddesses of Fortune (Lakshmi Devi) and the Earth (Bhu Devi), with Polachora’s senior queen, the equal of Bhuvanambike (Parvati) and the Speech goddess (Vak Devi), Divabbarasi may compare, but do they surpass her?

ಶ್ರೀವಧುಧರ ಪೋಳಲ್ಲೇ ರಾವನಿಪಂಗಗ್ರಮಹಿಷಿ ಭುವನಾಂಬಿಕೆ ವಾ . ಗ್ರೇವಿಯರ ದೊರೆಯರೆನಿಸಿದ ದೀವಬ್ಬರಸಿಯರ ದೊರೆಗೆಟ್ಟರ್ಪ ರೋಳರೇ [3]

This queen — Divvabharasi or Divambika is noted to belong to the Kadamba dynasty by birth and the Pallava-Nolamba by marriage. Further comparing her virtue with Arundhati, the inscription that lauds her charity towards several tanks and shrines, records the construction of a Vishnu Temple. [4]

Ramalingeshwara Group of Temples, Avani.
Ramalingeshwara Group of Temples, Avani.

In about 1000 AD, Rajaraja Chola conquered the Ganga kingdom, rendering the complete control of South India under the Cholas.

The region was known as Kuvalala in all the Ganga, Chola inscriptions.

Picture credits: BL Rice, Epigraphia Carnatica, Volume 10 (1905). [5]

This picture is of the wall behind the main Sannidhi at Kolaramma Temple. These numerous inscriptions, squeezed into the wall such that their ends and beginnings hardly distinguishable, record the beneficent grants and donations by the various Chola Kings. To the goddess whom they addressed as Pidariyar, patronizing all the activities of the temple and its festive activities, all the endowments are specified in a highly detailed manner.

Kolaramma Temple

What remains today as the present structure, albeit tiny by those days’ standards is a Chola stone reconstruction of the existing brick temple of the Gangas.

The inscriptions are mainly of Rajaraja I, Rajendra I and Kulothunga Chola I. A few observations that can be drawn from them —

  1. Not surprisingly, before recording the grants/charity, the inscriptions eulogizes the kings thus giving us valuable historical information
  2. As each inscription dates to a different year, ranging from the late 10th Century to the early 12th century, it is rather easy to develop the chronology of events
  3. Of course, these records are not unique from the Cholas’ time — the information and text are very similar to what is found in several Chola temples. Nevertheless, we’ll take this opportunity to look at one of the inscriptions in the Kolaramma temple.

One particular inscription dated 1033 AD — the 22nd year of Rajendra Chola’s reign is of special interest to us[6]. The inscription describes the grandeur of the various cities of the 11th-century Indosphere and his conquests. Do read the text of the inscription — the adjectives create vivid imagery.

The labeled map of Rajendra Chola’s conquests. Key to SE Asia markings from Prof Nilakhanta Shastri’s.

In the 22nd year of the reign of Ko(p)-Parakesaripammar, alias Sri-Rajendra-Sola-Deva who, — while the goddess of Fortune, having become constant, increased, and while the goddess of the great Earth, the goddess of Victory in battle and the matchless goddess of Fame, having become his great queens, rejoiced — in his extended happy lifetime, conquered with his great and warlike army Idaiturai-nadu(3); Vanavasi(4), shut in by a fence of continuous forests; Kollippakkai(8), whose walls were surrounded by sulli trees; Mannaikkadakkam(5), whose fortification was unapproachable; the crown of the king of Ilam (7) which was surrounded by the impetuous sea; the exceedingly beautiful crown of his queen; the beautiful crown and the necklace of Indra, which the king of the South (the Pandya) had previously surrendered to the kings of llam; the whole of the Ila-mandalam surrounded by the clear sea; the crown praised by many and the garland of ruddy rays, which were family treasures worn in succession by the warlike Kerala (29); many ancient islands(6) securely guarded from time immemorial by the sea resounding with conchs; and the crown of pure gold, worthy of Lakshmi, which Parasurama, who in anger extirpated kings twenty-one times in battle, had deposited in the inaccessible Sandima island(6), having considered it a secure place Masuni-desam, whose paddy-fields were green; a large heap of family-treasures along with many other treasures, after having captured, together with his relations, Indirasan of the ancient race of the moon, in a battle which raged at Adinagaravai(10) of unceasing great fame; Otta- vishaiyam(13), surrounded by dense bamboo thickets which were difficult to approach; the fine Kosalai-nadu(12), where Brahmans are collected together; Tandabutti(11), whose gardens abounded with bees, after having destroyed Danmapala in a hot battle; Dakkana-Ladam(14), whose fame spread in all directions, after having so attacked Iranasura that his stubbornness vanished; Vangala-Desam(15), of unceasing drizzle, from which Govindasandan, dismounting from his horse, fled; elephants of great strength, women and treasures, after having been pleased to frighten on a hot battlefield Mahipala of Sangottal(28), who wore the warrior’s ankle-rings; Uttira-Ladam(14), surrounded by the vast sea which abounded with pearls; the wave-throwing Gangai whose sacred waters were full of fragrant flowers; and who — having sent many ships in the midst of the billowing sea and having [captured] Sangirama-vijaiyottungapanma, the king of Kidaram(20), [along with his elephants], — took [the large heap of treasures which he had rightfully amassed], the Vichchadira-ttorana at the war-gate of the enemy’s extensive city, the wicket door set with jewels of great splendor, and the door set with large jewels; the extensive Sri-Vijaiyam(16) ; Pannai(18), watered by the river; the ancient Malaiyur(17), whose fortress was on a high hill; Mayirudingani (23), the moat around which was the deep sea; Ilangasokam (21), of undaunted heroicdeeds; Mappappalam(25), having abundant waters as its guard; Mevilimbaiigam, which had fine fortifications as defence; Valaippanduru, situated in the midst of green jungle; Talaittakkolani (24), praised by great men versed in the sciences; Madanialingam, of steady heroic deeds; Nilamuri-desam(22), whose fierce strength was increased by enmity; Manakkavaram(27), having gardens the flowers in which were full of honey; and Kidaram(20), of fierce strength, guarded by men who wore the warrior’s ankle-rings….

Although the above-mentioned conquests need not necessarily imply that they came under the direct control of the Cholas, the victory of the Cholas over these areas is undisputed and substantiated by the contemporary records of the respective empires themselves. The sheer size and route of the “Digvijaya” are awe-inspiring.

Mannaikkadakkam (5 on the map) is the modern Malked in North Karnataka and the erstwhile Manyakheta, the Rashtrakuta Capital. Mahipala of Sangottal(28) who is referred to in the inscription is the powerful Pala Ruler.[7] Clearly, Rajendra Chola’s army defeated 2 of the most powerful empires of that time in India — the Chalukyas of Kalyani who were the successors of Rashtrakuta, and the Pala Emperor, at least once.

Further, Dhanmapala of Tandabhuti is Dharmapala of Dandabhukti, a Kamboja-Pala ruler. Govindasandan of Vangala Desam is Gocindachandra of the Chandra dynasty in the Vangala region.[7] Interestingly, as the inscription talks about ‘elephants of great strength’ in Vangala, even the Mahabharata chronicles the war elephants of this region in great detail. This is seconded by Greko-Roman writers of the era too. [8]

Note the extent of the conquests. From Malkhed to Srivijaya, it spans about 3900 km in diameter. If we ignore for a moment, the Mauryan conquests were on land and the Cholas’ on the sea, Ashoka’s Empire, from Khandar to Brahmagiri spanned about 2200 km. This would probably enable us to visualize the naval power of the Cholas.

Stone carving, depicting Rajendra Chola in battle. In the entrance of the Kolaramma temple.

Kolar continued to be an important town politically even until the 17th century when it was under the Marathas. Originally a part of Shahji’s estate, it is named as one of the six provinces in southern Karnataka and Tamilnadu under Shivaji. By now, the name appears as Kolhar. But before that, we shouldn’t miss out on the legacy of the Vijayanagara that we find in the city.

For over three centuries, what started as a symbol of Hindu renascence in the south, is remembered today in the history of India as that empire that defined the pinnacle of excellence in art, culture, architecture, economy and power. To try to describe the Vijayanagar Empire right now, will be very superfluous.

They continued the tradition of patronising the Kolaramma temple. An incomplete inscription from the temple belonging to the reign of Achyuta Deva Raya (1538 AD) -

…temple in the Punya-kshetra of the goddess Kolala, worshipped in the four yugas, set up by Parasurama in this old time Dahana Kolala, giving it another name of Kolala Bhargava…

Before proceeding, it may be necessary here to give short sketch of Kumara Kampanna’s history here.

Kampanna is the protagonist of Gangadevi’s literary work, Madhuravijayam. The text Madhuravijayam describes in great despair, the conditions of Hinduism under the Madhurai Sultanate. Conjuring vivid imagery of the heart wrenching conditions of the Srigangam and Madurai Temples and the Agraharas, Kampanna is petitioned by the Devi of Madurai in disguise, having been handed over a divine sword of Lord Shiva, to go and vanquish the Turushkas. Read more here.

In the district of Kolar, assorted inscriptions of Kampanna Udaiyar have been found, who is mapped to the Kumara Kampanna. Muluvayi (Present day Mulbagal) in Kolar was generally a seat of government that was represented by King’s son and crown prince. Thus, Kumara Kampanna, son of Bukka I was the viceroy here.

Someshwara Temple in Kolar

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